Although in Aspen, the bill of fare rarely lives up to the bill, halfway down the valley in Carbondale is a restaurant I’ve thoroughly enjoyed twice now. Its website reads like a manifesto of seasonal, local food and gourmet ingredients — you get the impression of a Chez Panisse in the mountains. While not quite as precious, Six89 manages to keep excellent food within reach of the common man.

Although the economic troubles had kept many away from Aspen, the restaurant seemed fairly busy on a Thursday night. Maybe the “appetite stimulus plan” was responsible: any appetizer, soup or salad, plus a main dish, for $26.89. It’s billed as being for locals, but it’s for anyone, really.

My family was seated in the main room, where some very pretty holiday decorations were out, and the atmosphere was warm even though we couldn’t see the fireplace from our table. It was a bit loud, but a feeling of celebration was in the air.

I don’t think I’ve ever asked so many questions of a server, as we all ate and marveled and wondered: Where is the blue cheese in this salad from? (Point Reyes.) Are the crisp fried chickpeas cooked first, or do they fry the dried peas? (Cooked first.) What’s in the gnocchi? (An Italian truffled cheese.)

I made a meal out of two appetizers, the sweetbreads with apple and glazed Berkshire pork belly, and had so many tastes of others’ food that I was barely able to finish the second dish.

It’s taken me a while to finish writing this up, so my memory of the details of the meal have faded, but what remains is a warm memory of a golden evening.
Six89
689 Main Street
Carbondale, CO
(970) 963-6890