Going to see a play at East West Players was a good excuse to try out Tokyo Cafe, which I’d heard has the best gyoza around. It’s around the corner from ramen palace Daikokuya, and one Chowhound user’s way of dealing with the crazy lines at Daikokuya was to sign up on the wait list, then go around the corner for a gyoza appetizer at Tokyo Cafe.

The restaurant is perfectly placed for theatergoers, since it’s actually adjacent to the theater courtyard. And although there’s really no decor, the ambience is warm and familial - Mom in the kitchen, her daughter taking orders and the son running out the plates. Most of the people who came in seemed to be regulars - one guy was greeted with, “Hey, how’s your mom?” and a woman came in with her husband and declared that the champon there was her favorite. (They also recommended the salmon kasu.)

You can get gyoza as a meal, with rice, miso soup, salad and pickle. The sides are adequate, but the real star is the gyoza, pan-fried by someone who wasn’t afraid of letting them acquire a deeply browned, full-flavored crust. Gyoza have never been my favorite kind of dumpling - the Chinese are the ones to beat in this department - but these are definitely the best I’ve had.

Tokyo Cafe
116 Judge John Aiso (San Pedro) Street
Downtown LA
(213) 628-3017